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DETERMINE THE RIGHT BREEDING
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| Very Soft | 0 | to | 50 ppm | or | 0 | to | 2.8 ºdH |
| Moderately Soft | 50 | to | 100 ppm | or | 2.8 | to | 5.6 ºdH |
| Slightly Hard | 100 | to | 200 ppm | or | 5.6 | to | 11.2 ºdH |
| Moderately Hard | 200 | to | 300 ppm | or | 11.2 | to | 16.8 ºdH |
| Hard | 300 | to | 450 ppm | or | 16.8 | to | 25.1 ºdH |
| Very Hard. | 450 | to | +ppm | or | 25.1 | to | + ºdH |
The measurement for water hardness is variously expressed in different parts of the world. Most commonly used is the German formula: (ºdH), this is calculated on the principle that one degree of hardness indicates one part of calcium oxide [CaO] in 100,000 parts of water. A more accurate, and scientific term, (ppm) parts per million, is also very widely used.
To convert ppm to the German formula: ºdH……...ppm x 0.056 = ºdH
Make sure there are no calciferous materials in your water, i.e. rocks and gravel must be inert and not contain lime or chalk.
Use a reverse osmosis (R.O.) unit; this will clear all the impurities out of your water, as well as softening it. The problem with reverse osmosis is that it is actually “too pure” (having removed all the minerals as well); the secret is to mix the “pure” water from the R.O. unit with dechlorinated tap water, until you get the right mix. If you start with a mix of around 60% R.O. water and 40% dechlorinated tap water, it shouldn’t be too far out, but check it yourself until its correct.
Dilute your water with rainwater (filter it first for 24 hours through carbon), or use distilled water, and monitor, until the desired value is reached.
Alternatively water-softening products are commercially available.
On the other hand,
Add calciferous materials such as pieces of limestone into your aquarium; or a little coral gravel into your filter; don’t add too much at one time, and monitor until the desired value is reached.
It must be remembered that if alterations to hardness, and more importantly pH , are required, they must be carried out slowly This must be carried out over two or three days depending how much of a change is required, failure to observe this requirement could result in stress, or even death to fishes.
You need to be aware that pH is closely linked to water hardness; generally speaking a higher concentration of salts (the water is harder, or more alkaline) means a higher pH , and a lower concentration of salts (the water is softer, or more acidic) means a lower pH , although there can be exceptions.
Whatever the case, and even if you consider yourself to be in a soft water area, it will be unlikely that your tap water will be any where near acidic enough for spawning acid-loving fish, such as Tetras. In other words you will probably need to lower the pH of you water.
If you need to acidify the pH of water you could try using peat. Fill your aquarium with water and cover the surface with a 2-inch (5cms) layer of peat. Leave this for about a week, or until it settles to the bottom. The peat will release chemicals that will acidify the water and stain it brown, this is a more natural way to reduce the pH and the colouration of the water resembles that of rivers in and around the Amazon Basin. This seems to suit fishes in spawning condition that originate from the so-called “ Black Water Regions”.
If you consider the more natural approach to elaborate, or to slow, then you could use a commercial pH adjuster, such as Proper pH TM , this particular product sets the pH at a fixed level (you buy the pH requirement that you need, pH 7.0, pH 6.5, pH 6.0, etc.). It then holds or “buffers” the pH at that level and fights against “ pH rebound”, ordinary adjusters only temporarily change pH , and water can very quickly return to its previous condition. PROPER pH TM also Neutralises Chlorine, Detoxifies Heavy Metals, adds Electrolytes, and contains Aloe Vera.
If pH needs to be raised I find that the natural and best way to do it is to use coral gravel (it is also available in sand and shell form). This will achieve two goals at the same time, both raising pH and increasing hardness. All that you need to do is to place a small amount of the coral in your filter; you must carry out this process a little at a time and keep a check on the results until the desired level has been reached.
Again, there are commercial products available that will get you your desired result, but in the case of raising pH I think coral is the best, it is also much cheaper, a bag of coral gravel will last for years.
It is essential that you maintain a stable pH within the correct range, and the appropriate hardness, for the spawning of your tropical fish. Any changes made to the pH or hardness of aquarium water should be conducted slowly over a number of days to avoid stressing any fish.
As a general guide, for spawning,
e.g.
- Tetras
- Angelfish
- Rasboras… prefer pH 5.0 - 6.0, Soft Water; 1º - 2ºdH, Temp; 75ºF (24ºC)
While the Livebearing Species
e.g.
- Mollies
- Swordtails and
- Guppies… prefer pH 7.0 - 8.0, Slightly Hard Water; 5º - 20ºdH, Temp; 75ºF (24ºC)
*These are general guidelines and each species requirements should be checked specifically.
It is very important that partial water changes are carried out for the health and well being of your young fish’s. There will be minimum filtration in the rearing tank, usually just a bubble-up sponge filter, which will provide gentle filtration. Water changes will ensure that pollutants are removed. Initially change 10% of the water once a week, increase the amount as the fry grow, gradually stepping this up to 50% per week. The replacement-dechlorinated water must have the same pH , hardness, and temperature as the aquarium water that it is replacing.